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Notepad:  Oct-06, 2004 @ N/A miles

The Saturn is gone, lost to fire on Aug-19, 2004. 

I'm probably not going to add anymore Saturn content, and www.jonniesantos.com is getting a redo Jan-2005.  You'll find out then what replaced my SL-2.

Notepad Archive

Beautiful La Jolla below from on top of Mt. Soledad.

As I've said all along... 

"If you're not a car nut of any flavor, you won't get it."

My Saturn experience began in February 1997 at my local dealer Saturn of Kearny Mesa.  This was the home of Saturn Motorsports too until their recent move to the City of El Cajon.

In 1997 this was my first new car in 17 years.  This Saturn SL-2 cost $15,400 before tax and license.  It included a factory 3/36 (3 years or 36 months - which ever come first) warranty, of which I extended later to 5/60 after it looked like I was having an oil consumption issue that began around 30k.

Features of the car are its light 2,400 lb. chassis with a full space frame and polymer panels.  The power comes from an all-aluminum, 1.9 liter (116 c.i.) inline-4 engine with fuel injection (multiport), twin overhead cams driven by a chain (versus a belt), 16 valves, computer controlled spark (no distributor) and a rated output of 124 bhp.  The SL-2 comes with a factory rpm limiter (set to 6,500 rpm) and speed governor (set to 108 mph), along with onboard diagnostics through a PCM (Power Control Module) utilizing the industry standard OBDII system.

The S-Series Saturn's were discontinued in 2002.  The ION is the replacement vehicle - a nice, shared  platform vehicle with the parent General Motors.  It will be the platform for Chevrolet's Cavalier replacement called Cobalt in 2005.

 


  • Coolant - When did this stuff become rocket science?  From what I've read there's a couple types of Ethylene Glycol coolants.  The normal stuff is green and you change it every couple of years.  The weird stuff is orange and goes by the name DEX-COOL and lasts 5 years.  You CANNOT mix them, and you CANNOT alternate between one or the other.  The Prestone website is less dramatic about the issue - you can judge...

Here's a great link with technical jargon: 

http://www.amalgatech.com/technical/Dexcool.htm

 

January 2004  -  I've bought the Preston product recently for under $10.  I had no luck getting a straight answer from a guy at the auto parts store about which to use in my Saturn.

http://www.prestone.com/products/14.htm

 

 

 

  • Tires - Tires are how you and the car talk to the road.  This set of Bridgestone RE730's (below) are obviously all talked out!  Surprisingly I got 30k out of them.  They are a soft, summer-only tire that stick like glue.  I've replaced them with another set of Bridgestone's - these are the S03's 'Pole Position' shown stacked next to the car.  The S03's are another step up the performance ladder.  They are also Z-rated with a max speed of 186 mph.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looking at the rear, left of the car (below) is a comparison of when the RE730's were new and the OEM Firestone Affinity's were well worn.  The factory Affinity size is 185/65-15 and H rated - fine for getting groceries and seemed to be nail magnets.  Both sets of Bridgestone's are 205/55-15's.  To do a fun size comparison, and see what fits, check out:

 http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

 


  • Ignition Cables (Spark Plug Wires) and Coils.

Update:  May 2004  -  I'm currently running my second set of SPS performance ignition cables (yellow).  The red set suffered from chafing and one of the coil towers took out the plug end on another wire.  I've changed the location of the 3 and 4 wire looms to try and prevent loosing another set of cables.  The Accel coils are new too, along with some clever SPS cable retainers (hidden by this AC line in the top pic).

The ignition cable order at the coil pack (there are 2 coils) is 4,1,2,3. 

On the cylinder side it's 1,2,3,4 (left to right).

Routing of aftermarket wires has to match factory routing to enable the PCM to diagnosis ignition problems.

And here's a link about routing and spark plug gaps too:

 Magnecor link (de-framed, sorry Magnecor)...

 


  • Sway Bar and Motor Mounts - This month (April 2003) I added a SPS 17.5mm rear sway bar and replaced the dog bone lower motor and trans mounts with the firmer urethane ones (shown below). 

Pics of Twistec mounts used because they were handy - check out their site: 

 http://www.twistecproducts.com

Update:  May 2004

And here's a shot of the driver's side mount showing mild surface rust.  I assumed they were stainless steel

I attempted to install the rear sway bar myself until I got stumped by a brake line fitting on the left side.  I put everything back together and drove over to Saturn Motorsports and they did they did the work (thanks James!).

Update:  October 2003 - The swaybar bushings squeak.  I've figured out how to move the brake line without disconnecting it (there's a clip that holds it to the body) so I can apply grease.  It's only a temporary fix.  Also noticed the right, rear line is mangled.  I've run over some large debris in the highway, that's probably what's done the damage.  Saturn techs say it's okay...  Hmmm?

Update:  Janaury 2004 - The grease must have gone away because the squeak is back.

 

  • Brakes - At 78k on the odometer the car is on its 4th pair of front rotors and probably as many sets of pads.  The original set of front rotors were replaced under warranty after they warped.  My guess is during a routine service the guys improperly torqued the wheel nuts and caused them to warp.  Then over time I decided to try a set of Stillen cross-drilled rotors and found a way to justify getting them a set of Carbotech HPS pads.  Wow, great pads and my faves to date.  I got about 30k out of the Carbotech's but not until I ground the backing plate into one of the rotors.  The Saturn brake tech said he could turn them, however I wanted a new pair of rotors anyway and bought a pair of KVR's with Axxis Metal Master pads.  The KVR's were not anodized like the Stillen's (an option that is available), and I ended up hating the Axxis pads under heavy usage - they are fine for normal driving.  Looking for an excuse to replace the Axxis pads I ordered a pair of EBC Greenstuff's when got my tires from TireRack.  I haven't put the EBC's through their paces yet, so far I like them with only a slight notice of needing to warm up before getting on them.
     

  • Lighting - In hindsight I should of gotten the factory driving lamps.  That way I could use the factory switch (preferred) to run a relay should I later upgrade to aftermarket lamps.  I replaced the hi-beams with PIAA bulbs. 

And I've tried a pair of cheap driving lights (suffered from internal disintegration), a more expensive pair of CATZ driving lights (1 bulb burned out) and currently I have a larger diameter set of Hella Optilux lamps.  I got the brackets from SPS - nice fit.  Here's a pic of the brackets after a couple of years of the elements eating them alive.  I took them off and had Flamespray sandblast them, then do their magic zinc coating (top, right corner of pic).

Update:  October 2003 - One of the Optilux lamps is disintegrating internally and putting out an unfocused beam. 


 

  • Tunes - The upgraded audio system consists of:
    • Kenwood KDC-7011 MASK Head Unit (22 x 4 watts, 1.8mV pre-out)
    • Audiobahn ALD-28 Line Driver (max output 7V)
    • Prestige (by Audiovox) PA-S250 Amp (125 x 1 watts)
    • Pioneer TS-A1705 Speakers (3-way, rear deck only)
    • JL Audio CS108T-W0 Sub-Woofer (8", non-ported)

 


 

The Kenwood plays my PC burned CD-R's with no problem.  The pre-out voltage was too low and that's why I installed the line driver to boost the signal to the amp that drives the sub-woofer.  The system needs another external amp and component speakers (at least up front).   The 8" sub is tight, but IMO it's moody.  I'd love a DVD and an MP3 player, but I guess you have to draw a line somewhere.

Update:  November 2003 - The Kenwood died.  A guy on the newsgroup mentioned getting it repaired.  I've sent it to their repair facility and they'll fix it for less than $90.  The common problem with these MASK units is the cable (picture below) in the motorized face fails.  I got about 4 years out of mine.

  • Misc - There's a Hornet 700T alarm that never got connected.  I did put on the crankcase breather and marker lamps.  And the shop installed the flexible s/s brake lines.

 

Okay, so my econo-sedan is not a Formula racer.  However it handles much better with the Eibach Pro Kit springs and KYB GR-2 gas struts.  I've traded a firm but smooth ride for a somewhat choppy one.  It's an interesting trade off.  Wes over at Saturn Motorsports installed them on my lunch break - how great is that?!

I discovered a low-speed axel shimmy after lowering, which is common for this car.  Read more

 

 

March 18, 2002 - Before

Despite the poor picture, the point is to show the ride height before the new springs and struts.  You may be able to make out the space between the top of the tires and bottom of the fenders.

March 20, 2002 - After

I had better luck with this pic showing the new ride height and the space between the tires and fenders.  The Eibach's are 1.3 (front) and 1.1 (back) inches lower than the factory springs.

 

And here's the SPS billet aluminum strut brace - while you can find a brace for a lot less, if you've got a
couple of extra bucks, this is one gorgeous piece of design and machining. 

Don't forget that those 6 (3 per tower) 13mm tower nuts only tighten to 21 ft-lbs. (I used 20 ft-lbs.), otherwise you risk breaking the studs, which would mean taking things apart and getting another alignment.  Also the round, Allen head bolts that span the brace use a 6mm Allen wrench (which wasn't in my tool box until now).

I got a Cat-back exhaust put on by Crusin' Mufflers in El Cajon.  It's 2.25" diameter aluminized steel with a s/s oval tip.  Yes, there is no muffler - it's an experiment.

April 2003

 

A couple of weeks later I got tired of the low-frequency drone between 1000 and 2500 rpm's of the muffler-less system.  I went back to Crusin' Mufflers and looked over Allen's wall of mufflers and tips, deciding on this Magnaflow with dual-wall tip and a diagonal cut.  Sound is great (and quiet), but I would have liked the hardware stuffed up in the body cavity more.  I'm out of money now - we'll see what I come up with the next time around.


History of Repairs & Mods
1997 SL-2

(excludes normal service charges like oil & filter changes, etc...)  

 

  0  - 9,999 miles   $200
1 Misfire at engine start, dealer replaced ignition cable set under warranty.
2 Ran over road debris, blew a tire (sidewall damage) and scratched lower door panel. New tire and touch-up paint fixed.
3 Hood alignment crooked, corrected under warranty.
4 Warped front rotors, dealer turned rotors and installed new pads under warranty.
5 Trashed another tire (sidewall damage).
   

10,000 - 19,999 miles

  $10
6 Dash cover warpage, dealer replaced under warranty (original looked better than replacement) - suspect dealer was trying to be helpful.  Rotors warping (lightly) again, dealer disagreed, I did not pursue.
7 Replaced wiper blades.
8 Passenger-front seatbelt retractor stuck, dealer un-stuck versus replacing, work done under warranty.
9 Mysterious bald spot in driver's side carpet.
10 AC starting to smell a little musty/moldy when first turned on.
11 Passenger side decorative door window-strips oxidizing, dealer replaced under warranty.
   

20,000 - 29,999 miles

  $800
12 Passenger-front seatbelt retractor stuck (again), dealer replaced under warranty.
13 Upgraded radio with after-market Kenwood CD unit and Pioneer rear speakers.
14 Added cheapie fog lamps.
15 Upgraded Hi-beam bulbs with PIAA super-whites.
16 Rotors got worse, dealer service writer unhelpful, upgraded with after-market Stillen rotors and Carbotech pads.
   

30,000 - 39,999 miles

  $1,800
17 Upgraded (again) fog lamps with CATZ driving lamps and SPS brackets.
18 Oil usage started (within Saturn spec), switched to Mobil 1 synthetic and purchased extended warranty.
19 Upgraded sound system with JL sub-woofer and Prestige (Audiovox) amplifier (required a line-driver too).
20 Upgraded engine air cleaner assembly with after-market unit by HotShot.
21 Noticing door and dash rattles, mechanical odometer clicking.
22 Replaced PCV valve.
23 Replaced wiper blades.
24 Added to charging system a ICP 5W solar panel on rear package shelf.
25 Upgraded OEM alarm system with Hornet unit (still not operational until I finish wiring it).
26 Cleaned A/C evaporator myself.

 

  40,000 - 49,999 miles   $750
27 Engine rebuild* (cylinder honing, new rings and valve stem guides, oil & filter change), replaced temp sensor, replaced spark plugs.  * Repaired under extended warranty and only $100 was out of my pocket pocket plus $10 for new plugs, otherwise it would have been $1,500.
28 Switched back to dino oil.
29 Upgraded tires with Bridgestone RE730's, ultra performance tires including 4-wheel alignment.
30 Upgraded to SPS performance plug cables.
31 Removed solar panel (sun and heat disintegrated panel frame and support).

 

  50,000 - 59,999 miles   $1,280
32 Replaced trans fluid.
33 Upgraded to SPS s/s flexible brake lines/flushed brake fluid.
34 Replaced Torque Axis Mount (fixed interior rattles).
35 Replaced wiper blades.
36 Replaced battery and alternator.
37 Upgraded front marker lamps with clear units from SPS.
38 Upgraded/modified crankcase vent line with stand-alone K&N vent filter.
39 Replaced decorative door-window strips (all 4).
40 Repaired broken handbrake lever mechanism.
41 Removed under-hood insulation.
42 Replaced Stillen rotors with similar from KVR and Axxis metal pads.

 

  60,000 - 69,999 miles   $1,935
43 Replaced rear trunk lid reflector, accessory belt and tensioner, and flushed AC evaporator with DWD2
44 Upgraded springs and struts with Eibach Pro Kit and KYB GR-2 struts.
45 Removed air dam and splash guard.
46 Coolant flushed and replaced, replaced thermostat, temp sensor and PCV valve.
47 Replaced driver's side, rear window regulator.
48 Added SPS billet aluminum strut brace.
49 Replaced ATS (Air Temperature Sensor).

 

  70,000 - 79,999 miles   $2,400
50 Replaced alternator (again), (under dealer parts warranty)
51 Replaced fuel pump (under Saturn warranty)
52 Replaced idler pulley
53 Replaced A/C compressor and clutch, recharged system
54 Replaced/upgraded tires with Bridgestone S03 Pole Position, ultra performance tires including 4-wheel alignment.
55 Replaced front brake pads with EBC Greenstuff and turned rotors.
56 Replaced Torque Axis Mount (top engine mount) again.  Then replaced dog-bone engine/trans mount with solid mounts and urethane bushings.
57 Headlamp alignment
58 Upgraded rear sway-bar to 17.5mm SPS  adjustable bar.
59 Upgraded to a 2.25" Catback exhaust (resonator only, no muffler)
60 Added stainless steel muffler
   

80,000 - 89,999 miles

  $1,600
61 Replaced all coolant hoses and system flush
62 Replaced battery again
63 Slave unit for clutch failed - had it replaced.
64 Kenwood Radio/CD player died - had it repaired.
65 Flushed brake fluid and resurfaced rear drums.
66 Replaced coolant reservoir cap and water (coolant) pump
67 Replacing SPS spark cables with another pair, doing plugs and coils at the same time.
   

90,000 - 99,999 miles

  $00
68

Catalytic converter melt-down, fire burned into cabin (insurance said repair cost exceeded car's value and totaled it)

End of History on Aug-19, 2004

Ending Mileage: 91,529
 Total Dollars: 10,775

 

 


 

Just some fun with the camera up on Mt. Soledad in La Jolla.  This is on a
side street going into a residential area full of beautiful, hillside homes.

 

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